Port St Johns is the kind of place that stays with you long after the red dust has settled on your car, and it’s a destination every South African should experience at least once. Growing up, I remember those family trips with my parents, and there’s a specific magic to this part of the Wild Coast that doesn’t seem to change. While much of our coastline has been developed into high-rises and busy promenades, this town has remained rugged.
It’s a place where the Umzimvubu River cuts a path through the massive sandstone cliffs known as the “Gates of St John”, creating a landscape that feels much older and more soul-stirring than your average beach town. The Umzimvubu river in the Eastern Cape that flows into the Indian Ocean at the resort town of Port St. What makes it so special is the complete lack of pretension.
It’s one of the few coastal escapes left where “affordable” isn’t just a marketing buzzword. You can find everything from cosy self-catering cottages tucked into the forest to world-renowned backpackers like Amapondo, where the vibe is all about communal fire pits and meeting travellers from every corner of the globe. It appeals to a specific type of South African: the one who doesn’t mind a few potholes if it means they get to see a cow sunbathing on the beach, or the fisherman who wants to test his luck in some of the best angling waters in the country.
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It’s for the hikers who want to disappear into the Silaka Nature Reserve and the families who want their kids to see a world that’s still a little bit wild. There is a “live and let live” energy in the air here that’s hard to find anywhere else. You’ll see traditional Xhosa healers walking the same streets as local hippies and international explorers, all drawn by that same magnetic, subtropical pull.
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