False Bay exerts a majestic and calming influence on those who are privileged enough to live along its curving shores. For the trek fishermen, it’s a reliable source of yellowtail and haarders, even when they’re forced to compete with ski-boats sneaking ever closer to the beach and hordes of shrieking holidaymakers in the surf. For surfers, it’s mostly a frustratingly placid lake with one-foot waves but markedly warmer water temps, often five to six degrees warmer than “the other side”.
It is also a low-drama bay — when one of the paddlers gets tipped from their ski in a gale-force downwind run and requires a hand from the NSRI, it actually makes the local news. Occasionally, a fishing boat out of Kalk Bay will be swamped in the merciless southeaster. A visiting sailboat may be plagued by engine failure and require a tow into Simonstown.
During the holiday peak, there are often sad scenes when the body of a drowned swimmer is recovered under the appalled gaze of hundreds of beachgoers. Occasionally, there is a real mystery like the dozen or so empty survival suits found floating in the sea between St James and Seal Island. Though the puzzle attracted endless speculation and some frightening theories, no credible explanation emerged.
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Of course, the South African Navy (SAN) has its base in Simonstown, so there might be the odd corvette or even a frigate pottering around in the bay and perhaps even a submarine sunning itself off Clovelly. Like the tourists, the navy is mainly out and about during good weather — a trend that has not gone unremarked by the many navy sceptics who appear glued to their binoculars just waiting for the sailors to put a foot wrong. Many think that the navy’s preference for sunny skies and remaining in the bay is well-advised.
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