Can fashion deliver jobs and cultural confidence in Africa?

In a garment studio in Addis Ababa, hundreds of young women work behind rows of sewing machines, cutting fabric for local and export markets. Some enrolled after years working as domestic labourers abroad. Others came seeking work in a city where formal jobs are scarce.

A number are former sex workers rebuilding their lives through training and paid work. For Sara Mohammed, the school’s founder, the studio addresses a gap she saw while traveling internationally as a fashion model. On major runways, she rarely encountered Ethiopian garments.

What she did see was how branding translated into contracts, factory orders and jobs – a link she felt was missing at home. In 2004, she foundedNext Fashion Design Collegein Addis Ababa to connect training directly to employment. Over time, the programme expanded to support returnee migrants and women seeking re-entry into the formal economy.

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Sara said since its launch, the college has trained more than 5,800 women, about 30 per cent on full scholarships. Graduates leave with technical skills and, in some cases, sewing equipment, enabling them to earn income soon after completing the programme. For Tebiba Seid, a returnee migrant, the training was transformative.

“Five years ago, I returned from an Arab country and was given the opportunity to train as a designer at Next Fashion Design College,” she said. “It was a fresh start in my life, and I’m grateful.” Ms Mohammed did not stop at training. She also pushed to bring Ethiopian garments onto international platforms.

“We showcased in New York, DC, Berlin, Paris, and Milan,” she said. “Now they know we have very good 100 per cent handwoven pure cotton in Ethiopia.” Showcasing abroad, however, has not eliminated resistance. Ms Mohammed said some international distributors have resisted labeling garments as made in Africa, citing concerns about consumer perception rather than quality.

“The major case is we as Africans are not accepting ‘Made in Africa,’” she said. “People want to show the brand is from America or Europe.”

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