Bum cream and sunscreen: Why zinc oxide is having a major moment right now

If your For You Page has recently served you a video of someone smearing a thick white paste on their face before bed and calling it a “night mask,” you’re not imagining things – and you’re definitely not alone. Google Trends data from early July confirms it: search interest in “zinc oxide cream” has hit an all-time high, while “zinc oxide overnight” and “zinc oxide cream for acne” are both official Google breakout terms over the past month. Zinc oxide, the chalky white mineral that’s been sitting in your bathroom cabinet in the form of nappy rash cream, is suddenly one of the most searched skincare ingredients around.

But before you raid your baby’s cupboard (or your own bum cream stash) for a nightly face mask, it’s worth understanding why the humble zinc oxide in a tub of nappy cream is not interchangeable with the zinc oxide in your sunscreen – or a proper barrier cream, for that matter. It’s essentially a variation on “slugging” (the K-beauty-inspired practice of sealing in moisture overnight with a thick, occlusive layer) except instead of plain petroleum jelly, people are reaching for the zinc oxide paste made for babies’ bottoms. On TikTok, creators are applying anywhere from 10% to 40% zinc oxide creams as an overnight mask, claiming it calms redness, supports the skin barrier and leaves skin softer by morning.

There’s real science underpinning some of the appeal. Dermatologists note that zinc oxide can help lock moisture into the skin while offering anti-inflammatory benefits, which can be especially useful for red or irritated skin, in much the same way it helps treat nappy rash. Zinc has documented anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, and some research suggests it can support wound healing and collagen production.

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Not every skin type is going to love a face full of nappy cream, though. Dermatologists are broadly split between “it can help, cautiously” and “please don’t.” Some dermatologists point out that while zinc oxide has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, it also reduces oil production and absorbs excess oils – meaning it can leave skin drier, and isn’t well suited to acne-prone, oily or sensitive skin. There’s also an allergy factor to consider: nappy creams are rarely pure zinc oxide.

People allergic to zinc, lanolin, mineral oil, paraffin, wax or petroleum jelly are advised to steer clear, since most diaper creams contain a mix of these ingredients. “Zinc oxide creams should also not be applied to severe skin conditions unless advised by a healthcare professional. Medical advice should be sought if skin irritation persists, worsens, or if signs of infection, such as swelling, pain, or discharge, develop,” notes Dr Judey Pretorius, Biomedical Scientist and founder of Biomedical Emporium Skincare. The acne question is a particularly hot one, given “zinc oxide cream for acne” is one of the breakout search terms driving this trend.

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